Paris.
a bespoke City Guide from the depths of my heart & belly.
For nearly 20 years, I’ve lost and found myself in Paris. Each visit, a salve to my senses. This city houses a tender history of my highest highs and lows… tears of deep love and loss nestled between floorboards of candle-lit bistros, sprinkled backstage at the Palais Garnier, seeping along the Seine.
Meeting Paris at 16 was a summer romance. Meeting Paris at 34 feels quite the same. Butterflies, always. Puddle-skips in my jolly steps. A heart sigh of dramatic proportion.
I savor returning to sacred memories there… discovering the bottomless magic revealed by specifically directionless strolling, and stumbling upon new finds. Below, find a curated list of 🧈 recs from my heart, belly, & body to yours. I call out some seasoned spots you’ll know of but did my best to share more bespoke, local gems—Frenchman approved ;)
Note: Paid subscribers, gain access to my Paris City Guide linked on Google Maps (scroll to the bottom of this post). Lovely free readers, see this preview below, I’ll add newfound treasures with each visit ($6/mo for all the goods bien sur!)
Before we begin, ever relevant advice from one Anthony Bourdain:
“Most of us are lucky to see Paris once in a lifetime. Make the most of it by doing as little as possible. Walk a little, get lost a bit, eat, catch a breakfast buzz, have a nap, try and have sex if you can, just not with a mime. Eat again. Lounge around drinking coffee. Maybe read a book. Drink some wine, walk around a bit more, eat, repeat. See? It’s easy.”
*Inhale…… exhale……allez!
Paris Guide
Eat.
Café Charlot: I cherish this corner bistro for its perfected chêvre chaud, croque madame, frites, burger, people watching, and vin chaud in the winter
Chez Georges: I saw Marion Cotillard dining here once and felt validated. Get the frisée salade, frites, et naturellement, the tiramisu—make a rez
Le Flore en l'Île: an “our spot” kind of dinner over looking the Seine, pair the chêvre chaud with a Spritz & live happily ever now
Café de l'Industrie: I’ll sit here from breakfast to lunch.. or lunch to goûter reading/working/day dreaming… cheap, breezy, dependable
Chimère: the perfect pre-theatre bite, walking distance from Palais Garnier
L’Assiette: quintessential French Country fare, you’ll order the cassoulet
Septime: a most worthy, most heart-mind-body nourishing investment of a dining experience… if you can’t get in, opt for Septime La Cave (get the pizza)
Le Square Trousseau: I caution to shoutout my favorite, quintessential French bistro for beautifully personal reasons but alas, sharing is caring… stop by Blé Sucre (boulangerie) and Maison Cuilleret (kitchen store) next door before the French dinner you’ll dream about, de rien
Passerina: everything about the street corner this lives on makes my heart sing. Go for the vibe, the perfect wine, the flavorful small plates… stay for more
» Less original, 🧈 worthy: Breizh Café (pair Cider with a savory crepe before the obvious nutella choices)… and L’As du Fallafel (picnic your treasure-filled pita pocket over to Place des Vosges)
Indulge.
See HERE for the best croissants in Paris—for obvious reasons, this gets its own guide
Aux Merveilleux de Fred: Vanilla. Waffles. Watch them being made through the window and understand
Glace Bachir: Lebanese-style, pistachio-sprinkled ice cream worth the line (close to Centre Pompidou if modern art & sweeping city views sounds appetizing)
À la Mère de Famille: an iconic chocolatier… stroll along the nearby Rue des Martyrs for Swedish Candy at Karamell, Beillevaire butter & cheese from Fromagerie Beillevaire, then hop over to Buvette Paris for my favorite cocktail ever, the ‘Paris Manhattan’—the croque forestier is also a higher love
Les Petits Mitrons: this tarte shop dropped out of a children’s book I never want to finish… order anything with berries through the window and never be the same
» Less original, 🧈 worthy: Folderol (cinnamon ice cream), and Poilâne (country sourdough and literally anything else)
Picnic Fare:
Rue du Nil: this tiny most perfect street is a delightful catch-all. Stroll it slow for choice patisserie, PLAT chocolate, a glass, a bite, a sighhh
Salvo olio e vino en vrac: I wrote an entire post about this sandwich that lives (*thrives*) in Paris here, you can too
Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges: stock up on confiture, comté & sandwiches you’ve seen on TikTok (worth the hype)
Maison Plisson: a French Citarella so, better. Don’t skip the downstairs selection of spices & other absolute essentials like beurre salé
Le Marché Couvert Beauvau: my go-to for market for Maison Bordier butter, beaucoup de fromage, charcuterie …et voila!
Sip.
Partisan Café Artisinal: vibey coffee scene, sit on a bench with a book like the cool kids
Dreamin’ Man: aesthetically pleasing to all senses, a divine afternoon coffee/treat
Chez Jeannette: organic wine, beautiful people, and olives I often think about
» Less original, 🧈 worthy: The Hoxton. I’ll tie up remote work here with a buttery latté & crunchy green beans—my straight from the airport move—before relishing in all things markedly, not work
See.
Musée Marmottan Monet: unclear why it took me so long to happen upon this *gem* of a collection... spilling with Claude’s best and the very painting that inspired impressionism
Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection: Immersive, contemporary art inside of the former Stock Exchange… mais oui
Musée Jacquemart-André: an ornate 19th century “townhouse” with a breathtaking collection of art—not to mention the staircase, go forth
Musée de l’Orangerie: lose time, find yourself before Monet’s curved landscape murals here, there are 8
Musée Rodin: it’s the fairytale garden for me…
» Less original, 🧈 worthy: Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre (light candles for loved ones) Notre-Dame Cathedral of Paris (restored in all of its Glory), and bien sur, the Louvre
Do.
38 Riv Jazz Club: we love a cavernous, demurely downstairs jazz bar
Cimetière du Père-Lachaise: a cemetery to the Stars …Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Chopin, to name a few—a chilly stroll through in autumn is something magical
Manufacture des Gobelins: my French love took me to this famed tapestry factory one sunny fall afternoon between meetings, we shan’t forget it
Le Baiser Salé: a rather special open mic night of international talent lives here
Palais Garnier Opera House: home to Paris Opera Ballet… go for a tour, a jar of honey from their rooftop hive, and of course, a performance
Église Saint-Éphrem-le-Syriaque: treat yourself to a candle-lit classical concert here… offered at cathedrals around the city, particularly soul soothing when it’s chilly out
Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen: go antiquing in this sprawling trove of treasures… otherwise, walk slowly through sidewalk brocantes around the city if the thought of 3+ hours amidst thimbles, French silverware, antique plates, and teapots overwhelms you ;)
Grande Mosquée de Paris: a delightful scrub, shower, and Mint Tea, mais oui
Maison Fleuret: treated myself to a croissant making class here for my Birthday this year, 100/10 recommend… the Marais location is precious
Le Cordon Bleu: learn from the masters at any which one of their workshops. Take your Momma… a gift that keeps on giving
Le POPUP du Label: craft cocktails & live music—a local go-to
» Less original, 🧈 worthy: Crazy Horse
Shop.
E. Dehillerin: the famed, go-to kitchen store of HRH Julia Child. In my early 20s, I started my knife collection here—I add on each visit :)
PAN Paris: this store of antiques & home goodies will bring you joy
Astier de Villatte: an aspirational collection of white-washed ceramics… generous gift options (incense!) and original ornaments at Christmas time
Mélodies Graphiques: the most Harry Potter-ish stationary shop to ever exist
Le Petit Atelier de Paris: a cutie café and ceramics shop—I go here for gifts I’d want for myself ;)
Maison Labiche: fill your dream french closet here, custom-embroidered T’s & sweatshirts for a prized gift
La Maison - Nad Yut: this home good store reminds me of Copenhagen—best of both dreamy cities! Go for candle sticks, cards, and other girlie dopamine hits
Mademoiselle Jeanne Bastille: shop like a French girl here (got this rec from a real one!) … also got my fave jeans here and dream spent all of my euros
Pigments: deliiiiiightful home goodies & gifts
Messy Nessy’s Cabinet: for one-of-a-kind treasures
» Less original but 🧈 worthy: Merci (great lunch in their café btw) and Samaritaine (I struggle with department stores but this one. This. One.)
Sweat.
… walking around Paris is the dreamiest step-count one could possibly (not care to) measure. For those, like me, who enjoy a sweat to steady…
Modo Paris: my forever favorite heated Vinyasa Yoga studio—but in French and therefore, b≈tter 🧈
Coulée Verte René-Dumont OR Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: my two favorite places to run in Paris, you will be moved—read more about these & other choice city runs here
Seine: bike, run, walk along the serpentine river that carries city secrets… grab a drink in the sun, or hop right into a group of Swing Dancers if you happen upon them
🧈Tips 🧈
Apps I recommend:
IDF Mobilités - purchase metro tickets on here, quite simple to tap & go…
L’officiel Spectacles - features ongoing events & exhibitions around Paris
G7 - great for taxis, Uber also available
Preply — *obsessed* with this language learning platform—I’ve been taking French lessons on here weekly for months… Here’s referral link, I adore my tutor Jenny B
*One last thought…
Paris is ever & always the City of Love—know this love takes so many delicious forms and flavors...
Also, if you’re on the lucky receiving end of an invite to “the countryside” …. GO.
Ok, c’est tout c’est tout!
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